Tire Sizing
Passenger Tire sizing is typically displayed as:
P215/65R15 89H
The tire size branded on the sidewall provides a significant amount of information about the tire's intended purpose, dimensions, load capacity and high temperature/high speed durability.
Our primary example will be based on variations of the 225/50R16 size, although other sizes will appear where appropriate.
Service Type
Most tire sizes begin with a letter or letters that identify the type of vehicle and/or type of service for which they were designed. The common indicators are as follows:
P225/50R16 91S
P = When a tire size begins with a "P," it signifies the tire is a "P-metric" size that was designed to be fitted on vehicles that are primarily used as passenger vehicles. This includes cars, minivans, sport utility vehicles and light duty pickup trucks (typically 1/4- and 1/2-ton load capacity). The use of P-metric sizes began in the late 1970s and they are the most frequently used type of tire size today.
225/50R16 92S
If there isn't a letter preceding the three-digit numeric portion of a tire size, it signifies the tire is a "Metric" size (also called "Euro-metric" because these sizes originated in Europe). While Metric tire sizes are primarily used on European cars, they are also used on vans and sport utility vehicles. Euro-metric sizes are dimensionally equivalent to P-metric sizes, but typically differ subtly in load carrying capabilities.
T125/90D16 98M
T = If a tire size begins with a "T," it signifies the tire is a "Temporary Spare" ("space saver" or "mini spare") that was designed to be used temporarily only until a flat tire can be repaired or replaced.
LT245/75R16 108/104S
LT = If a tire size begins with "LT," it signifies the tire is a "Light Truck-metric" size that was designed to be used on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo or towing large trailers. This includes medium and heavy-duty (typically 3/4- and 1-ton load capacity) pickup trucks, sport utility vehicles and full-size vans. Tires branded with the "LT" designation are the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide substantial reserve capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
7.50R16LT 112/107Q, 8.75R16.5LT 104/100Q or 31x10.50R15LT 109Q
LT = If a tire ends with "LT," it signifies the tire is either an earlier "Numeric", "Wide Base" or "Flotation" Light Truck size designed to be used on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo and towing trailers (Numeric sizes), use 16.5-inch diameter rims (Wide Base sizes) or are wider, oversized tires designed to help the vehicle drive on top of loose dirt or sandy surfaces (Flotation sizes). This includes light, medium and heavy-duty (typically 1/2-, 3/4 and 1-ton load capacity) pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles. Tires branded with the "LT" at the end of their size designation are also the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide substantial reserve capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
195/70R15C 104/102R
C = If a Euro-metric sized tire ends with a "C," it signifies the tire is a "Commercial" tire intended to be used on vans or delivery trucks that are capable of carrying heavy loads. In addition to being branded with the "C" in their size, these tires are also branded with their appropriate Service Description and "Load Range" (Load Range B, Load Range C or Load Range D).
ST225/75R15
ST = If a tire size begins with "ST," it signifies the tire is a "Special Trailer Service" size that was designed to only be used on boat, car or utility trailers. ST-sized tires should never be used on cars, vans or light trucks.
Section Width Following the letter(s) that identify the type of vehicle and/or type of service for which the tire was designed, the three-digit numeric portion identifies the tire's "Section Width" (cross section) in millimeters.
P225/50R16 91S
The 225 indicates this tire is 225 millimeters across from the widest point of its outer sidewall to the widest point of its inner sidewall when mounted and measured on a specified width wheel. This measurement is also referred to as the tire's section width. Because many people think of measurements in inches, the 225mm can be converted to inches by dividing the section width in millimeters by 25.4 (the number of millimeters per inch).
225mm / 25.4 = 8.86"
Sidewall Aspect Ratio Typically following the three digits identifying the tire's Section Width in millimeters is a two-digit number that identifies the tire's profile or aspect ratio.
P225/50R16 91S
The 50 indicates that this tire size's sidewall height (from rim to tread) is 50% of its section width. The measurement is the tire's section height, and also referred to as the tire's series, profile or aspect ratio. The higher the number, the taller the sidewall; the lower the number, the lower the sidewall. We know that this tire size's section width is 225mm and that its section height is 50% of 225mm. By converting the 225mm to inches (225 / 25.4 = 8.86") and multiplying it by 50% (.50) we confirm that this tire size results in a tire section height of 4.43". If this tire were a P225/70R16 size, our calculation would confirm that the size would result in a section height of 6.20", approximately a 1.8-inch taller sidewall.
Internal Construction A letter (R in this case) that identifies the tire's internal construction follows the two digits used to identify the aspect ratio.
P225/50R16, P225/50ZR16
The R in the P225/50R16 91S size identifies that the tire has a Radial construction in which the tire's body plies "radiate" out from the imaginary center of the wheel. Radial tires are by far the most popular type of tire today representing over 98% of all tires sold.
If the R in the size was replaced with a D (225/50D16), it would identify that the internal tire body plies crisscross on a Diagonal and that the tire has a "bias ply" construction. Tires using this construction are for light truck and spare tire applications.
If the R in the size was replaced with a B (225/50B16), it would identify that the tire body plies not only crisscross the tire on a diagonal as before, but that they are reinforced with belts under the tread area. This type of tire construction is called "Belted." Tires using this construction are practically extinct.
Speed Rating
Today, the only tires that continue to include the speed rating "in" the tire size (P225/50ZR16) are Z-speed rated tires. In this case, following the two digits used to identify the aspect ratio are the letters ZR to identify the tire's speed rating (Z) and its internal construction (R). Since 1991, all other speed ratings are identified in the tire's Service Description (which will be covered shortly).
Tire and Wheel Diameter
P225/50R16 91S
The 16 indicates the tire and wheel diameter designed to be matched together.
Tires that have a rim diameter expressed in inches (P225/50R16, as well as 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24, 26 and 28) are called "inch rim" sizes, are the most common type of tire size and are used on most cars, minivans, vans, sport utility vehicles and light duty light trucks.
While not as common, two additional "unique" types of tire/wheel diameters are still in use today.
Tires and wheels that have a rim diameter expressed in "half" inches (8.00R16.5LT, as well as, 14.5, 15.5, 17.5 and 19.5) are used on some heavy-duty trailers, heavy-duty light trucks and box vans.
Tires and wheels that have a rim diameter expressed in millimeters (190/65R390, as well as, 365 and 415) are called millimetric sizes. Michelin initiated millimetric sizes for their TRX tires that saw limited use on many different car models in the late 1970s and 1980s.
Michelin PAX System run flat tires have been introduced as an integrated wheel/tire system on a very limited basis as Original Equipment (O.E.) in North America. An example PAX System size of 235/710R460A 104T expresses tire and wheel dimensions in millimeters (235 mm Section Width, tire Overall Diameter of 710 mm and a 460A mm rim diameter, with the "A" in 460A signifying these tires feature "asymmetric"
All of these "unique" tire/wheel diameters were developed specifically because the tire and wheel design or intended vehicle use required them to be different than conventional tires and wheels. All of these tires and wheels feature bead profiles that have a different shape than traditional "inch rim" sizes.
Tires and wheels with unique rim diameters should never be combined with traditional "inch rim" tires and wheels.
It is critical that the tire and wheel diameters are always confirmed to match before the tire is mounted on the wheel.
Service Description
P225/50R16 91S
The 91S represents the tire's Service Description. A Service Description identifies the tire's Load Index and Speed Rating. Service Descriptions are required on all speed rated (except for Z-speed rated) tires manufactured since 1991.
When do you need to Replace Tires?
Tires are typically replaced when their natural lifespan has come to an end. There are any number of factors that can affect this including storage, temperature, surfaces they are driven on, how aggressive of a driver you are, punctures, etc.
The usual recommendation for replacing tires is when they no longer feel safe to the driver. You can see when they are legally worn out using the tread wear indicator or a shiny new US Penny.
A typical set of tires under normal driving conditions will last approximately 40,000 miles, V rated and higher can last a lot less miles. Some T Rated tires are designed for much longer, even up to 80,000 miles.
Lift Kits for Trucks or SUV's
In my business, I get a lot of calls from people wanting to put a lift kit on their trucks or SUVs. People who want to know if it?s safe, economical and responsible to lift their vehicles for recreational or visual purposes. If you?re having these or similar questions, be assured that you are not alone.
A lift kit can be look really cool on truck or SUV or when you want larger tires to fit on your truck. Lift kits can increase ground clearance, lessen the jarring of the automobile that is caused by irregularities in the road, and give the vehicle a unique and beefy look. However, before you jump into the world of lifted vehicles, there are a few things you should consider in finding the correct lift kit.
Suspension Lifts vs. Body Lifts There are two main types of lift kits available today. Suspension lift kits are a system of springs used to raise a vehicle by suspending the frame, body, engine and power train above the wheels. Body lift kits are a system of blocks used to raise a vehicle by suspending the body above the frame. I recommend suspension lift kits for the performance-minded customer, and body lift kits for the cost-minded customer.
If you are only interested in a lift kit for the visual effect, I normally recommend the body lift kits. They are easier to install, do little to nothing to effect the ride quality of the vehicle, and allow for the addition of bigger Bad Boy Tires if desired. A body lift kit can make a vehicle look tough at a cost-effective price.
However, if you are interested in the performance capabilities of a lift kit, or would like to learn to drive skillfully off-road, I would recommend a suspension lift kit. Although a bit more expensive, suspension lift kits give a vehicle the capabilities to crawl through dirt roads, rocks and trees, and even mud and water. They give a vehicle the capability to go where most vehicles cannot, and see awesome natural wonders.
The Best Lift Kit
Once you?ve decided on either a suspension or body lift kit, you will need to know what type you want. Now when it comes to body lift kits, there is one world-popular company that I always recommend: Performance Accessories offers high quality components, easy-to-follow installation instructions, and low prices.
When it comes to a suspension lift kit, the decision becomes a little more difficult. There are many great suspension lift kit
Cost
If pricing is your major concern, I normally recommend either Pro Comp or Trailmaster. For what you get, these two companies offer among the best prices around. Both companies have comprehensive lift packages, including all necessary components and hardware, with tough trail-ready parts.
Performance Capability
If your truck?s performance in muddy or rocky conditions is your major concern, I normally recommend either Fabtech or SuperLift. Although a little more expensive than many of the other
Ride Quality
Most people already know that a suspension lift will affect your vehicle?s ride quality. If this is a concern, there are
Warranty & Customer Service And finally, when purchasing a suspension lift kit, you must do some research into the company with which you plan to make your purchase. Lift kits of any kind can have problems, missing pieces or defective parts. I highly recommend checking each company?s warranty guidelines, as well as seeing how easy it is to get them on the phone or reach them via email in case of an emergency. It is essential to find the company you feel will backup their product the best.
Overall, purchasing a lift kit can be a great learning experience. If you follow these rules, you should be able to maximize that experience by choosing the best lift kit for your needs.
Bad Boy Mud Tires & Bad Boy Mud Driving
Driving through mud is a cross between ice skating and walking through quicksand. Some types of mud have a greasy top layer with a hard baked surface underneath, while other types can be a bottomless quagmire of gooey mush.
Different types of mud require different driving techniques, equipment and Mud Tires. Greasy mud with a hard bottom layer is best suited to narrow mud tires to allow them to cut through the top layer to bite the hard surface below. Wide mud tires in this situation tend to float on the greasy top layer without reaching the hard surface underneath.
Thick gooey mud tends to favor wide mud tires as they give some flotation, similar to wide tires favoring sand driving. Lowering your tire pressures can help just like when sand driving, though its best not to lower tire pressures below 20-25psi for mud.
Regardless of what type of mud and what width tires are fitted, the tread pattern needs to have large lugs to allow the tire to 'clean' itself. If they don't, the lugs fill with mud and the tire becomes a 'slick' with little chance of getting traction. Road orientated tread patterns tend to have closely spaced lugs to put more rubber
Mud Driving Techniques Mud Tires
Unlike some other types of terrain, mud-driving techniques vary on the type of mud. Reducing tire pressures can help in 'bottomless' mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud. Mud usually tends to hide obstacles such as tree roots and sticks just waiting to slash your sidewalls, so its best to avoid reducing tire pressures if you can avoid it.
Driving on the peaks between tire tracks can provide firmer ground, as water tends to collect in the wheel tracks. Though sometimes the existing wheel tracks have cut through to the firmer surface underneath and provide the best traction.
Moving the steering wheel left to right about 90? from the center can help the front wheels bite into the mud in search of traction. Do not turn the wheel too for as you can end up making things worse.
As you have probably gathered by now, mud driving is unpredictable and you need to have a knowledge of different driving techniques to know which one to apply in each situation. What doesn't change is the need to have good mud tires with big self-cleaning lugs and good recovery equipment.
Maintenance
Mud, especially clay and thick mud, tends to stick wherever it touches, It can build up under the wheel arches to the point it acts as a brake on the tires. This type of build-up is obvious and has to be cleared immediately, but other types of build-up that are not so obvious but still need immediate removal is on the rims. Even a small amount can throw your wheel balance out dramatically and can lead to uneven tire wear and a vibrating steering wheel.
Once all visible mud has been removed, its necessary to check items like diff and gearbox breathers to ensure they are clear, otherwise it con lead to seal damage in the long term. Also check all drain holes on the chassis etc to ensure they are not blocked. Its surprising how mud can even find it?s way to block drain holes on the bottom of doors!
BAD BOY MAXXIS TIRES FOR MUDDING
Learn How to Drift Race
Drifting is a driving technique and a motor sport where a car slides at an angle, with its side moving in the direction of the turn.
Things to do Before You Begin Drifting
Set up a cone in the middle of the lot. Drive up on the cone and rip the handbrake in an attempt to do a 180. Practice this until you are no more, and no less than 180 degrees from when you started.
Learn how to countersteer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of 10-20mph and trying to control the car to a destination until the car stops. Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable
try to do the 180 cone turn put instead of stopping, hit the gas hard and power out and away from the cone.
Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission
Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission. Ideally it should be a sports car with as close to a 50/50 ratio as possible, and enough power to keep the tires spinning is ideal.
Head to an open area (i.e. an empty parking lot) safely free of pedestrians and motorists and police!
Hand brake technique:
Accelerate and shift into a gear with room to rev. Second gear is generally used because it allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque. Push in the clutch.
Flick the steering wheel to the inside of the turn as if you were going to turn around it. While simultaneously pulling the hand brake.
Immediately out some pressure on the gas pedal, let out the clutch, and steer the car in the direction of the slide, using throttle to control the angle of the drift.
More Throttle will make the car turn more, and also move the car away from the turn center. Less throttle will reduce angle, and allow the car to move towards the inside of the turn more freely. You're drifting!
Clutch Kick technique: Used while you are already moving to increase angle and/or revive wheel spin. While you are drifting, you may feel the car begin to lose its drift angle and power. If this happens, you can kick the clutch to attempt to revive to tires spinning speed. This is similar to powershifting, and you are in escence trying to 'chirp' the tires again and again.
Enter a drift.
while you still have the power put on, kick the clutch pedal in and out a few times as fast as you can until the car is drifting again.
end with your foot off of the pedal. continue the drift, and when you feel the car begin to lose angle/power try to clutch kick again.
Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto
Find a large, open area. Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room) Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Only use full throttle to start the drift, after this you should use proper throttle control to continue through the corner.
Preparing to Drift with a Front Wheel Drive Car
Go to a large, open area. Pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot. Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).
Pull the hand brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.
Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)
Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing. Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock.
Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car
Approach a turn at a comfortable speed, preferably in mid 2nd gear. Pull the handbrake while turning into the corner, try not to lock the rear wheels.
You should still have the power on, try not to go less than 1/2 throttle at any time during the drift.
- When you feel the car start to understeer, and lose angle, pul the ebrake harder. - When the car seems to turn too much, give it progressively more throttle, and release the handbrake some.
No two cars react identically; try to "feel" yours to familiarize yourself with its reactions. In a rear wheel drive vehicle, you don't need to pull the brake as you improve, but it is often necessary when first learning. Starting out in the rain will save tires, and allow you to practice at slower speeds.
Check out the Drift Bible, which outlines some of the more complex techniques involved in drifting a car. Try to find How To Drift: The Art of Oversteer by Paul Morton for really DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS AND PICTURES Good choices of cars to drift include: Nissan 240SX, 180SX, 350Z, and Skyline, Mazda RX-7 and Miata, Toyota Supra, AE86, Corolla, Silvia S14, and Silvia S15, Chevrolet Corvette, Viper, GTO, Solstice, G35, and SC300, etc. These cars have close to a 50/50 wight ratio, rear wheel drive, manual transmission and enough power to keep the wheels moving.
Never drift
Don't go faster than you can handle. Recovering from a spin takes skill and experience.
Because severe or uneven wear is a driving hazard, be sure enough tread remains on the tires when finished drifting, but the tires should either be checked out by a professional or changed immediately.
If you intend to drift a SUV or pickup, use extreme caution. This can be done but you must be very experienced at drifting.
A car with wheels, an engine, tires suspension, a race track or open lot (recommended you have asked local authorities, tickets are not cool) Cones or other markers.
BAD BOY TIRES FOR DRIFTING The Falken RT-615